A reading
Couchsurfing in Iran
Officially, it’s prohibited. Still, Stefan Orth decides to couchsurf through Iran, thereby getting to know a country that doesn’t fit its image of a rogue state.
Eight years ago, Anika Landsteiner moved to Munich. She didn’t speak a word of Bavarian, but way too much Franconian, which didn’t make it easier for her to feel like she really belonged to Munich. And today?
In spite of my awkward starting position, I was still able to quickly make myself a home here. Meanwhile, when people ask me where I’m from I naturally respond: Munich. It was something that evolved over time and has really showed me one thing: when it comes to home, it’s this city. And it’s easy to explain why.
Of all German big cities, Munich is perhaps the one that’s misjudged the most. Let’s be honest, if at all, it’s all nice and green in the South, something with the “Wiesn” (Oktoberfest), everything’s somewhat tidy and groomed, where the police really don’t have much to do, and, of course, the proximity to the Alps! That’s something, the proximity to the Alps? Anything else? What follows is an awkward silence.
Constantly, I feel like I have to defend my dear Munich.
I don’t like the city-bashing because I believe every city has its pros, but also its cons. What I really like here? That it’s not agitated.
Almost everyone rides their bikes, the cityscape is marvelous, the choice of cafés, restaurants and culture is overwhelming. In particular, Munich, to me, is one of the few cities that’s still pretty to look at in the wintertime, with its old villas in Bogenhausen, the renaturated river Isar and the cobbled, winding streets in the Glockenbachviertel.
But honestly? Don’t waste your time at the Englische Garten, find a nice spot in the small, somewhat secluded bay along the river. Discover Westend, that, for years, has been supposed to become the new Glockenbach, but somehow never manages to, which is exactly why it’s such a great place. And please, please don’t go out for food along the Leopoldstraße, unless you want to land on top of the other tourists’ laps, but give Nymphenburg, Haidhausen and the Au a chance, because they are altogether sleepy and so charming.
Munich is and remains a village of millions – and that balance is not easily maintained. There are temporary uses and underground parties, good clubs and even better bars, there are still arthouse movie theaters and the “Boazns” (small beer pubs) with their ladies behind the counter, that altogether have some stories to tell. But there also horrific rents, slick Schwabingers (Schwabing is a popular district among the city’s rich and famous), whose sight makes your throat itch, and there’re the latte-macchiato mommies who circumvent each table in a fancy café with their latest buggies.
What’s most important for my personal feelgood factor: Munich is quiet and laid-back. It’s the perfect city to come home to. Being a travel blogger, I really appreciate this as I don’t always have to adjust to something new, and not everything is hectic and fast-paced and has long reinvented itself once I’m back from a longer trip. That’s when I really enjoy knowing where I can get the best cup of coffee and that every morning, the old man at the subway station will throw me a smile and holler a “Good morning, Sunshine”.
I like this city. In addition to its amenities, it has the edges I need to occasionally get upset about; friction develops and eventually warmth, when in the winter, I hold a reading at an ice cream parlor that was converted into a cultural bar or in the summer, I eat fries at the outdoor pool at least once a week.
The bottom line is: you are there, where you feel at home.
Sometimes it’s just a feeling. Sometimes the reasons aren’t that important. Then I think to myself:
Oh well, so I live here. Isn’t that enough to drop by for a cup of coffee?
* * *
Photography by Deniz Ispaylar.
My favorite café for writing is the Café Jasmin in the Augustenstraße because it’s under monumental protection and there is no Wi-Fi.
Other recommendations concerning Munich’s coffee culture: the Bar Centrale where you are greeted with a “Ciao, buongiorno!” and immediately feel like you’re on vacation in Italy. The city’s best profiterole included.
My new favorite beer is Leffe brown which I enjoy at Zum Wolf – a bar that reminds me a little of the bars on the Reeperbahn in Hamburg. The music here is great, but also at the Café Kosmos, where they will crank up Tom Waits at a late hour and serve you a “White Russian” that’ll make you feel warm and cozy.
Food-wise I prefer going out to Max Pett. Their vegan creations are to die for. Still got the munchies? Then check out the Bergwolf, where you can gorge on the best fries in the Glockenbachviertel; on the weekend until 5 o’clock in the morning. Yum!
Officially, it’s prohibited. Still, Stefan Orth decides to couchsurf through Iran, thereby getting to know a country that doesn’t fit its image of a rogue state.
A project that promises to help people and push me to my limits. A reality between moments of lethargy and the pressure to perform. Steven Hille travels to Africa to build a well.
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Welt Six Pairs of Shoes
Germany Ein Esel zum PferdestehlenGermany Vier Räder, Küche, Bad Freiheit auf vier RädernChina Urlaub im ÜberwachungsstaatUSA Arm, aber frei – als Hobo durch AmerikaKuba Drüben, in der anderen Welt Auf der Rückseite des GlobusFinnland Hoch in den NordenSyrien Willkommen in SyrienUsbekistan Ein Meer aus SandElfenbeinküste Die GeisterstadtBurma Goldene ZeitenRussland Couchsurfing in RussiaGermany Das blaue ParadiesSchweiz Zur grünen StundeNicaragua The Magic of the Corn IslandsKongo Crossing CongoNorwegen Ultimate FreedomSpanien Into the Heart of the Pyrenees On the Road of LifePhilippinen Me, Love and Other CatastrophesTürkei Arrival in Istanbul Türkei Floodlights in the ForestCroatia Ambuscade at the BorderAustria Across (Goat) CountryGermany The Big GoalNew Zealand Speed Dating with New ZealandAntarctic Happy AntarcticaBurma Road to MandalayVietnam Lost in Vietnam
Spanien Ungezähmte BergeGrönland Gefangen im EisIran Hochzeit im IranUSA: Florida 100 miles on the tracks of the CalusaBrasilien Rio de JaneiroArgentinien Aconcagua, 6962 MeterPeru Zwischen Himmel und ErdeUSA: Utah Westworld Allgäu Orient RallyeFinnland Sehnsucht nach SchneeRuanda Mister Guhonda und die letzten GorillasMongolei Gekritzel im Sand gegen die große EinsamkeitRumänien In RuinenJordanien JungeUSA: Alaska Big RiverUganda The Long Road to WaterAfghanistan KabulNorwegen The Rest is Silence Germany Under The DomeChina K2USA: Alaska Alone in the WildernessPakistan Hitchhiking Through PakistanIran Kids of TehranUSA: Colorado Rocky Mountain HighBangladesh Life and Death in the Empire of the TigerIran Couchsurfing in IranSomalia Welcome to Somalia
Frankreich Yoga und SurfenAustria Der Geschmack des WaldesKatar Fata MorganaKaribik TraumschiffGermany Mehr Pott geht nichtAustria Mach mal langsamIndonesien Meine Tage als BuleGermany Grenzgänge durch BrandenburgBurma Nachtzug nach BaganKirgisistan Die Flügel des MenschenMexiko Comeback mit Backpack in MexikoGermany Towards WinterThailand Der Pfad der ErleuchtungWelt Six Pairs of ShoesGermany ZauberlandSpanien Mrs. Müller Drops OutFinnland Wandering CosmosGermany The Bundesliga village Poland Warszawa rzucająca na kolanaGermany Munich: Oh well, I live here. So?Germany Jena: Next Stop ParadiseGermany Bochum: Steel HeartbeatsItaly Dear Dolomites, I'm BackGermany The Bavarian OlympicsLatvia Somewhere up thereSouth Africa: Kruger NP The Big FiveGermany My Loveletter to LangeoogGermany The End of a Journey
Readers Mail
Tell us what you think
Marco on 7. Dezember 2015
Schönes Ding, Anika! Macht wirklich Lust, München noch mal unvoreingenommen neu zu entdecken.
Gib mal Bescheid, wenn der Mustang-Plan für die USA steht. Da würde ich gerne mitkommen!
Liebe Grüße,
Marco
Anika on 8. Dezember 2015
Hej Marco,
das ist alles, was ich mir gewünscht habe zu erreichen – danke! Und ja, Roadtrip mit dir im Mustang, das kann ich mir gut vorstellen :)
Grüße aus Kerala, Ani
Kristin on 7. Dezember 2015
Eine tolle Episode! Und ja, ich habe auch immer das Gefühl, mein geliebtes München verteidigen zu müssen. Bin ganz verknallt in diese Stadt – deshalb danke für dieses schöne Porträt!
lg, Kristin
Anika on 8. Dezember 2015
Juhuu und merci merci! München ist top :)
Anton on 26. Juni 2017
Hallo Anika,
vielen Dank für diese Tolle Einsicht in das Münchener Leben.
Ich mache bald eine Deutschlandtour und werde auch in München Halt machen. Hast du vielleicht ein paar Tipps für mich, was ich dort unbedingt gemacht haben muss? Das wäre echt super.
Viele Grüße
Anton
Pradeep on 11. März 2020
TOLLE Informationen Vielen Dank, dass Sie diese hilfreichen Informationen geschrieben haben. Wir laden Reiseblogger zu einem Besuch in Sri Lanka ein. Wir geben Ihnen eine kostenlose Safari-Jeep-Tour http://www.imperialyalasafari.com